While it may be another bleak Tuesday morning for some, down here in New Orleans it is the coveted Fat Tuesday; come rain or shine we shall be dancing in the streets with joy and an eager zealous known nowhere else. Mardi Gras is known world wide for its extravagant traditions, grandiose costumes and floats – the celebrations date back almost 200 years, before even electricity was invented.
It is my first official Mardi Gras in this incredible city and I have been celebrating endlessly over these past few weeks. As Carnival season is officially in full swing, I thought I would take a little break from all the excitement and share with you some of my personal experiences and knowledge that I have gained over the past few months.
As I write this short good morning piece, the Krewe of Zulu is currently rolling uptown, where ladders, tents and food stalls have magically appeared over night to cater for Fat Tuesday. The parades have been heavy laden this season, with at least one a day this week, and some days boasting up to six or seven parades.
I can hear eager revelers passing by my home, singing and chanting, the familiar rattle of beads heavy in the air. Green, gold and purple bleachers now line the streets of New Orleans (so that people can view the two story floats in their full glory) and children have been awake with excitement for several hours in anticipation of the eagerly awaited throws.
In a short while I will also be on my way to Canal St. where I will be but a humble bystander, or reveler, of the Krewe of Rex. I will join the thousands of visitors and locals which are taking to the streets of New Orleans for Mardi Gras 2012 and all the celebrations which are to be had.
The Flambeaux carriers were traditionally a beacon of light for revelers and the torches were originally carried by slaves and free men of color (in the hopes of making a little money). The carriers are known to parade tall, flaming torches which light the parade route between floats. They were established in the old-line Carnival organization Comus. Comus sought to bring new people and customs to Mardi Gras.
The Flambeaux are now highly respected members of Mardi Gras and it is traditional to honor the aged practice by throwing coins or dollar bills to those who light the path. Now, incorporated in modern processionals, the torchbearers are not only a historic footnote, but serve as a world-class example of performance art. The torches may be lighter and use butane or kerosene, but the entertaining exchange between the crowd and the Flambeaux is still a rich Carnival tradition.
Did you know It is illegal to wear a mask in public? This age old law is only forfeited on Fat Tuesday until 5pm; so please, if you are in the Crescent city, wear your mask with pride and don’t forget to tip the Flambeaux!
Mardi Gras 2012 has been proven to be quiet the adventure so far. Personal highlights have included rolling in not one, but two official Mardi Gras parades with the Skinz and Bonez Krewe (a social aid and pleasure club). We are an all woman Krewe who celebrate the under-represented and the age old New Orleans Voodoo and Native American traditions.
The first parade we took part in was on the opening carnival night. Krewedeluision was an amazing experience in which we rolled with our Queen, Mardi Claw and Dancing Man 504 – our choreographer and noted face of Jazz Fest. The streets were lined in an intimate celebration of mostly local residents who were eager to kick off Carnival and the turn out was fabulous.
On Sunday past, the Skinz and Bonez also rolled in the Krewe of Okeonos. In complete contrast, this parade was extravagance personified. With aching, tired bones, we marched on through the many. many streets and neighborhoods of New Orleans before surfacing on Canal St. to much fare. We were joined from New York by the
Strutting and jumping and high-stepping underneath their decorated parasols, blowing whistles and waving feathered fans, the African-American members of New Orleans’ social aid and pleasure clubs are the organizers, originators, and sponsors of the second line parades for which the city is famous.
The brass band that follows the parade’s grand marshal and club members, who are always dressed in coordinated suits and classy hats, blast out exuberant rhythms to propel everyone’s high-spirited march through the streets. The club and brass band are known as the first line, and the audience that forms behind the parade to join in the festivities is the second, hence the term second line parade.
Before Hurricane Katrina, New Orleans African-American social aid and pleasure clubs numbered in the forties, and a different club “rolled” just about every Sunday except during the summer. While the parades were rarely advertised or well publicized, second line devotees would know the time and location of the route. Social aid and pleasure clubs are now struggling, but some are still parading. Those who love the tradition come out and bring a handkerchief to wipe away tears and to wave aloft.
Also, did you know they are now serving deep fried king cake? Count those calories folks, it has to surely be the sweetest death known to mankind!
I hope that you celebrate Fat Tuesday no matter where you are, and that you are able to rest up on Ash Wednesday, I know I will be! I would like to thank those I have been working with recently for their understanding and flexibility on projects. I have throughly enjoyed regaling my tales from Mardi Gras with you all and hope that you have a safe and prosperous Carnival season.
By Clurra Donald
